Marchesa Spring 2012
New York Fashion Week
September 13, 2011Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig gained inspiration from a painting by Ilya Repin called “Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom” for Marchesa’s Spring 2012 collection. They said before the show that they loved the ethereal feeling that came from it, and how it went with the Marchesa look. Well I can see that connection and as we know, Marchesa are known for making beautiful gowns and evening wear. It’s what Georgina and Keren are good at.
The collection obviously featured plenty of mermaid silhouettes which fits the inspiration perfectly. As well as this, you could really see the connection between the sea and the material and embroidery used on the garments. The dresses with the long feathers reminded me of the sea bed with all the marine plants slowly swaying in the water. The colour palette did not feature any tones from a tropical fish (thank god), but rather neutral tones that remind you of how peaceful the water can be. There was some black and metallic designs, but the whites and creams dominated the collection.
While they avoided using colour in the designs (something you clearly see in the painting), I think the choice of sticking to neutral tones was a good idea. They managed to channel the garments in the painting onto their designs. The embroidery is beyond perfect and the shapes, cuts and silhouettes are just right. I’m so thrilled that someone has used a piece of art as inspiration – and executed it so successfully. I think that creating more art via original art is priceless. One of the best collections from New York Fashion Week, ever.
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